Tuesday, March 8, 2011

What in the hell is a blizzard?

What in the hell is a blizzard?

A couple weeks ago we faced not just a blizzard in the QuadCities. It was the blizzard. No one  had been seen like that for 40 years plus.  My private English teacher said I had luck in seeing something like that … I can’t disagree more.
Technically, a blizzard is a snowstorm with a strong wind. In Portuguese we call it “nevasca” – by the way, we just call it but, thank God, we don’t see it. I have a peculiar point of view about what I saw on that Tuesday. Blizzard is a process for me.
The day after ...
It is a process because it is something that transforms as time goes by. Take a look at the following steps:
1.       Excitement – it is the time before “it” starts. It can last a week or two before the next step. It’s the time when you turn on the TV set or access the internet and see news about it. A lot of news.  So, you realize that something “different” and “huge” is coming.
2.       Scared – Despite being told at the first step to stay at home because of safety matters, at the very beginning of “it” you were told you must pick up those ones who you care about wherever they are.  So, you must stay outside of home and inside of your car. At that time the snow, wind and some slippery roads have taken place and everyone who is inside of their own cars has the same thought:  I need to go home. Suddenly you realize the weather is getting worse and you can end up stuck in your own car.
3.       Awesome – this is the best part of “it”. It happens when you are safe and sound inside your home while you are appreciating the chaos through the window. During the step one you were told about the wind will blow strongly and now you are totally sure that it is really true. The point is: the snowflakes came from the sky into all directions. I mean, it sounds like someone is pondering snowflakes in a room with 4 fans (N,S,W,E) set for blowing at 50 MPH. Anyway, you are inside home, so, no problem with -25 C wind chill outside.
4.       White – Finally “it” gave up after hours of chaos. The feeling at this time is relief and calmness (since you are inside home) because you barely see anything through the window but whiteness.  I mean trees, roofs, sidewalk, wires, street, streams …  a kind of peace pops up to your mind. In days like that it is common and necessary for everyone to stay at home. They call it a “snow day”. A kind of day off regarding your incapacity of getting anywhere: work, school and stores.

Snow days deserve a commentary. It is also common some stores announce clearances on the snow day. It sounds like madness to me. Since there is no public transportation you have two options to get to a store: on foot or by car. On foot – Quite few people have Eskimo’s skills to reach the stores regarding the frozen weather out there (-20 C). By car – unless you take a ride in a snow-plough truck, you can’t get to the store by car because you will end up stuck on the snow, that’s if you could get your car out of the garage.

Cold and hard work


5.       Hard work – Talking about garage, after a while you start thinking you will need to use your car before spring season (when snow naturally melts). So, “Let the dog out” …. That is what I do. In this case “dog” is a used and noisy John Deere Snowthrower which is needed a secret formula to work (1 part of oil for 50 part of gas). I don’t know why my neighbor does it so easily and I don’t, but the point is I can’t maneuver it as easy she does. I have to push it hard to move it against the 40 cm of snow height. Anyway it is better than remove that entire snow using shovel.

Well, blizzard aside, snow season is a totally interesting experience. As most of you know, I have been abroad sometimes although I had never seen snow before I came to the USA. Despite  the cold weather, people really do things – going shopping, going to work, going to school, having fun … even running outside with temperature that I barely can stand for couple seconds outside.

After the hard work
It’s amazing when I am almost freezing inside the car while children are waiting to get the school bus in a place with no protection. It’s amazing seeing the Mississippi River totally frozen in its almost 1 mile wide. It’s amazing thinking how squirrels, rabbit and deer can even survive outside since they use the same “clothes” all year long.

I grew up in a place that you can feel the climate changes along the year, but here those changes are much more intense.  I thought winter time is a period that people take a chance to stay more at home. It’s funny when you realize it is up to you and the weather is just an excuse. I mean, for me it is the same. Unfortunately, I’m still doing the same as I did during all year long – staying at home. Sometimes I got frustrated about it, but I am dealing with it.

Thanks for reading and take care.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Grand Canyon – day 11






Despite of waking up 4h30 I ended up starting hiking late at the most famous trail of Grand Canyon – Bright Angel Trail. If you intend to reach the Colorado River you will probably use this trail and it could be a huge problem. Rangers insist on NOT trying to reach Colorado River in a day-hiking. They strongly recommend 2 days to reach the bottom - one day down and one day up to reach Colorado River. It is not an impossible task, but it is tough for sure, for the record I would say too tough. By the way there is a photo of a misinformed marathoner that died on that trail.


You can choose your level of effort stopping and returning at 3 or 4 rest points along the trail. At each one of them (1.5 mile distant between them) you can find water and restroom. It helps a lot because you don´t need to carry much water so I carried electrolyte and food instead. By the way, my backpack was the heaviest of all other days.



I started hiking with a confortable temperature and with a clear blue sky above me. It would mean – hot afternoon … At the first stop downhill the temperature was 60 F and restroom closed for cleaning service. The temperature wasn´t bothering me, but the restroom … After I solved this little problem I went toward the second rest point 1.5 mile down. The temperature there was above 70 F. Of course the views are amazing.



During my way for the 3rd rest point I had to stop - mules. For the record, mules are quite common at this trail. Mules are very strong and smart enough to keep on the trail. I haven´t heard a word about a suicide mule or something. Anyway, mules can carry people or "what people leave at restroom". Off the record, I guess sometimes mules don´t realize what is on their back.







When I arrived at the 3rd rest point (Indian Garden) – 4.5 miles down – At Indian Garden you can find shade, water, rangers and a lot of notes telling you how dangerous it could be try to reach the river. I was not tired at all. It was about 11am and the temperature was around 70 F. So the variables – temperature and my fitness - were playing at my side. At that point you can choose 3 ways: go back to the top (5.0 miles uphill), go to the river (4.5 miles ahead) or go to Plateau Point (1.5 miles ahead).



I took a while there and after a little doubt I chose go toward the river. Fifteen minutes later I changed my mind and went back to Indian Garden and went toward Plateau Point. That was my luck… I would end up too tired if I kept going to the river.




Plateau Point

Plateau Point is 1.5 miles far from Indian Garden and it is a flat way. I felt I was walking in desert. No shade, some sand and rocks, tiny plants and cactus. I got at the end of the trail in 20 minutes. The view of the Colorado River is indescribable from there. I stayed there for 1h30min under the sun. The view and the sound of the river worked like an oasis.






The Cookies and the Thief (Zoom in)

During my delighting, I took off my shoes, picked my food up (potato chips, cookies, trail mix and Gatorade) and tried to relax a little bit. I saw a crow and a squirrel walking around in order to find some free food. I didn´t care much. No rush, just relax. All of a sudden I saw a squirrel running with a zip bag FULL of cookies. Just my luck. Ok, my mistake.







When I was back at Indian Garden I realized I made my second mistake – I forgot to recover the likely empty zip bag. That kept in my mind, but I wouldn´t spend 1 hour round-trip under the sun just for an empty zip bag. I thought: "Let fate take care of it". So, I ate something (no cookies at all) and I took a nap on a bench under shade.


I woke up when an annoying squirrel tried to steal my hat. At that time I realized I had already walked more than 8 miles and I had more 5 miles of uphill to reach the top, I was a little bit tired and the thermometer showed 100 F. Variables were playing against me. "Nice and slow" that is the secret.







During my way back I got really tired. I stopped more than usual, I ate more than usual, I drank more than usual, I took some energetic drinks and I started listening to music (the last two items were the first time that I used them on a trail). Everything was in order to have strength to keep going up and somehow it had been working, but when I saw a man with a prosthetic leg on the trail I automatically realized I had just received the strength I needed.




Strength


After 9 hours and almost 15 miles later I reached the top. It was the most exhausting and exciting trail I ever experienced. It was hard to complete this trail but it is harder to describe my feeling at that moment. What I experienced during those 9 hours was terrific. Everything ran so nicely that even my second mistake was forgiven – I found (and I picked up) a zip bag like mine during my way back.






So, after think a little while I decided to give up of another trail. I was too tired and plenty amazed and satisfied of my all 4 trails. With this decision on my mind I took a shower, ate something and went back to the tent in order to rest and think about the next day. My last day at Grand Canyon. The day that I would see the mighty sun rising at Grand Canyon.


See you soon.


(Reviewed)

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Grand Canyon – day 10







The rain has gone but my wish of going hiking hasn´t. I woke up early in order to face the South Kaibab Trail. My first surprise of the day was meeting with an Elk along the road.








The Kaibab Trail has two sides: North and South. In fact, it is just one trail that links both sides of the Park. I hiked a part of the north side. Now I was trying to track a part of the other side. There is no water and virtually no shade in this trail, so you must be prepared for it – that means heavy backpack.






Rangers strongly recommend you only go down around 3.0 miles. I did a little farther because I was no tired at all, I had enough food and water, so I went down more 1.5 miles and I had a wonderful view of the Colorado River. It was magic. It was my first view of the river in a track, I mean, with my own legs. I probably spend 45 minutes looking at that view under the sun. I didn´t care. The roar of the Colorado is something unbelievable. I was practically numb. A crow got along with me. Both of us were hungry. I helped myself.










After some tears and with sorry I had to leave that magic place and start going up. Even going uphill, the South Kaibab trail gave me more good surprises. When I was at the half of the uphill the rain started. I wore my NEW raincoat and 10 minutes later I found a cave. Amazing, isn´t it? I stayed in the cave during 15 minutes. It was a little cave, but it was still a cave. After left the cave I took a little time at a peaceful place. I could hear the silence there.


When I arrived at last "rest" point the temperature was 90´s F (after the rain). I took a little while there and kept going up and after 7 hours I completed 10 miles round trip. I got tired for sure, but I was also pretty glad and confident about my next challenge – Bright Angel Trail.












After a deserved bath and some shopping I went back to my cozy tent with a nice mood. When I closed my eyes at the darkness of the forest I could feel just one thing. JOY!!!







Sunday, August 15, 2010

Grand Canyon – day 9




In the solitude of my tent I planned how many tracks I would do: South Kaibab trail, Bright Angel, day off and Hermits trail. 



The dawn was rainy. It could mix up my hiking. Humidity was high inside the tent. Water poured from the bottom. I was annoyed by the water inside the tent and outside. As usual, I woke up 4h30 … raining … I went to the beginning of the trail … raining … I waited up to 8 o´clock … raining … I gave up to go hiking … raining.


My only option was to visit the "unrainy" places like museums, gifts shops, supermarket, etc… The point is – it wasn´t just my option, it was everyone option. So everything was crowded and wet.

Although the rain I could enjoy my day. I caught the opportunity for going to watch Rangers Speech and went shopping. In between I was thinking a B plan. "What can I do if rain everyday?". So, I asked it for a ranger and he said: "It is OK go hiking, BUT watch for FALLING ROCKS". I said: "What was that?". He replied: "If you hear some noise of falling rock, run toward other direction. Keep eyes and ear opened". I said: "O…K…".

Sunshine appeared at late afternoon and my hopes about hiking tomorrow increased. Afterward I returned to my cozy and wet tent and wait till the next dawn. 


That was a day without photo. That was a day with anxiety.




See you soon


(No reviewed)

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Grand Canyon trip – day 8








After a great night of sleeping, I grabbed my stuff and got the road toward Grand Canyon National Park – South Rim. It took 1 hour or so. As usual, when I arrived there I went to Visitor Center to get some information. A nice and kind lady (Ranger of the Grand Canyon) called me. I said: "It will probably take a while … I intend to stay here 4 or 5 days and I intend to go hiking 2 or 3 times during all day long. I have a tent although I have no idea where I can put it."


It really took a while, but she was patient and gave me all tips about how I could spend my time in an enjoyable way. When she started talking about camping, the most peculiar question was asked me …

Ranger - "Do you mind stay at a rudimentary place?".

Marcio - "What do you mean?"




Elk - wild life on Grand Canyon
Ranger – "A place that there is no water, no electricity, no restroom … it is a forest outside of the National Park."

Marcio – "Well … Is it dangerous? How far is it?"

Ranger – "It is a forest … you know … but it is not an unusual place. People camp there. It is about 30 minutes from here. You can camping anywhere you wish, since this place be outside of the Park."

Marcio – "Deal! Show me the map"


As she suggested, I enjoyed my afternoon in various spots. That place is very well organized and it must be. The Grand Canyon National Park – South Rim receives probably 4 Million people per year. For instance, you can find supermarket, camping, laundry, coin showers (I was used to it), hotel, clinic, restaurant, kennel and gift shops in the park (of course crowded). For the record – that place is called Grand Canyon Village. It also has shuttle buses to take you at many places in or out of the park.





Colorado River



It is hard to describe how beautiful that place is. It is unbelievable. I visited a lot of point views and each one has amazing views. Even just one point provides innumerable views. Different of the north side, at the south side you can see the Colorado River in various points. It is something. I didn´t hold my tears. It was a dream that came through.








In the late afternoon I took a look at the map and I went to find out where the camping site is. At the beginning I was afraid that I got lost, but I wasn´t lost. The campsite is far from everything. The place is called Kaibab National Forest … so it is a forest. I would be camping in a forest. After I realized the whole situation that I was experiencing, I tried to find a better place to camp, after all, there was nobody there besides me. I could find a nice camping site. I mean a cleaned place among trees. It sounded like that place has been used as camping site for ages. As a professional camper I put the tent up in an easy way.







"Excellent!!!" I said. An afternoon full of views. Camping site found and ready to go. So let´s think about tomorrow. 18h30min. I realized I would need some supplies for tracking next morning – basically food, water and clothes. Let´s go to the math: Go and back to Village -> 1h; Have my clothes washed and dried -> 1h; Supermarket  ->15 min; Bath ->20 min. The whole thing would take 3 hours. At 21h30min that place would be dark …totally dark. I thought over about the situation and I realized – time is money. What is not critical here? Bath … so let´s skip the bath. That clever decision saved $2,00 and 20 minutes.





Before
After
Anyway, when I arrived at the camping site was dark. I must confess. I was scared. In fact, I was too scared. I was alone, and actually I would like to keep that situation. My mind went 10 years back when I was camped in a place like that and a bear came to visit me. Ok, there is no bear at Grand Canyon, but I saw a traffic sign that meant "Watch for Bobcats". So I took some "survival" measures …: park the car as close as possible of the tent, doors' car unlocked  (for faster entrance), go to sleep with knife, stick wood and flashlight. Those measures were kind of psychological stuff but them helped me a lot.


Everything set up … let´s go to "bed". As usual I took my notebook with me in order to write for the blog. While I was writing, inside the tent, I started hearing "something" moving. Instantly, I got quiet and scared. More scared than quiet. I realized it was like an opening plastic bag sound. That didn´t make me happy at all. After some tons of milliseconds I realized it was under the tent. I saw the shape of "something" moving under the tent. It wasn't a big deal and then after 30 minutes or so I turned the lamp off and closed my sleeping bag with that annoying sound. After all, I had to be rested for my first track on the South Rim. …


See you soon.


(No reviewed)

Friday, August 13, 2010

Grand Canyon trip – day 7





The campgroung is among those trees.


After this night I don´t consider me a Junior Camper anymore. I finally had a good night of sleeping. The days of rock and chilly under my back are over.





As I planned, I woke up early (5h15m), put tent down (in 15 min), tried to organize my "home-car" (30 min) and bye bye Demotte Campground around 8h00 (that´s not match … never mind). I would like to reach the south of Grand Canyon in the evening. You can get the South Rim by 2 ways from the North: tracking or driving. Tracking was not an option at that moment - one day down and one day up carrying all of my stuff on my back into the rim wasn´t in my plain. The second option has more two ways: east or west way. East takes 4 hours. West takes 10 hours. I choose the hardest one.


"Are you crazy Marcio?". Actually the longest way has some appeals. I would like to "see" Las Vegas and Hoover Dam and that was I did. I just saw them. So I set the GPS and went to the road. The road to Las Vegas is not a big deal. In fact, it there isn´t a big deal at all. Desert. Hot. It was not hot as Las Vegas. It was 114 F on the road. In Las Vegas was 115 F (more than 46 C – I had never faced it before). Other thing I had never seen was the traffic sign – "No hitchhiking allowed. Prison area".




Las Vegas

Las Vegas sounds like a nice city, in spite of it is in middle of desert. but I was not into it. I just got little lost there (intentionally) and I stopped for lunching. It was too hot. As I said, 115 F (46 C). My next goal was Hoover Dam.


Huge!!! Very beautiful!!! Lake Mead – the lake built in function of dam is blue. Amazing. Off the record – Itaipu Dam beats Hoover Dam in beauty.





Next goal – Grand Canyon – South Rim. But, before I got the South Rim I have to face more desert. It is funny … you can see some little cities on the way and I wondered … what in the hell you can do here??? I didn´t figure it out. Anyway, I of course noticed how good roads are. Sometimes I couldn´t see the next curve … probably more than 15 miles straight ahead.







During this travel I got a little bit confused about time. Check it out – I left North Rim to get South Rim. I left Arizona to get to Arizona. To accomplish it I left Arizona (one time line), got in Utah (other time line), got in Arizona again (other time line), got in Nevada (other time line) and finally get in Arizona once again (other time line). I am thanked by no one ask me "What time is it sir?".


As I would got too late in the South Rim I decided to stay in Flagstaff. I didn´t like it… I was expecting a little town. It is not. Anyway, … the most interesting thing that I did there was driving on the famous Route 66. Well, I couldn´t feel the wildness feeling of the road, but … it has something in that road … So, at that night I gave a break for the tent and I slept in a little hotel. That break was deserved. Do you wanna know why … ?



See you soon …


(No reviewed)




 

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Grand Canyon trip - day 6



6th day … 2nd night feeling my backbone was freezing. I definitively have to solve this problem. It became an honor question and health as well. Anyway, let´s go hiking!!!

North Kaibab trail – that is the one. That track links North with South Rim.  So it´s my first trail into the rim and I was looking forward to doing it. As usual, every single turn has a great view, but the strategy is let photos for uphill. Why? It is an excuse for taking a break. This track is steep. You start at 8.200 feet and end at 4.800 feet in around 5 miles. So you go down fast and go up slow, sometimes too slow. The math is simple. Your uphill will take the double of time of downhill. For instance, if you take 2 hours for going down you will take 4 hours for going up. For the record, when I started going down it was about 50 F.

While I was going down I met a guy from Australia. He is very nice and almost crazy … He was camping on the Grand Canyon, so he was on the South Rim, went to North Rim and he was going back to South Rim again. I tried his backpack. It was about 60 pounds – my one was at least 6 times lighter than it. Anyway we got together so far to my half destination – Roaring Springs.




Roaring springs is very important for the Grand Canyon. Every potable water used on the Canyon comes from Roaring Springs…
 <<<<< I am gonna stop writing because I am hearing strange noises around my tent >>>> (*)
… It is a beautiful place to take a rest. There are a little creek under a shaded area. So, that place is perfect to chat with someone else.  During my break I met people from Canada, EUA and others that I have no idea where they were from.




As I said, for going down is easy and fast, of course, the opposite is pretty true, and it is also unfair because you go down under a shade and confortable temperature and go up under 90’s F and just little shade. Anyway, you have no option. You MUST go back to the top.

While you are facing the uphill you can realize how beautiful is that place. As I said, every single turn has a view scenic. That is time to take pictures. Unfortunately my camera is not a professional one, anyway, I took some nice pictures, although there is nothing comparable with being there. That is awesome!!!

When I was about 30 minutes to reach the top I was gifted with a nice surprise. Mules. Mules are a way for people that want to see nice views but don´t want, or can´t walk, sweet, be exhausted, so on … It is a peculiar view and also smell … Mules are training for going up and down into the rim, but there are not trained to go to restroom. Facts: 90´s F, no shade, 3:00 pm, no wind and … sh.. of mule on the all way long. Anyway, that´s the way it is.



As I expected, my uphill was slow, hard, hot, fatigued and enjoyable. Enjoyable??? Yes, quite enjoyable. After 7h30 walking, talking, taking a break and pictures, breathing, feeling and hearing the wind ... the pleasure in being in a place like that is indescribable. When I got the top I was pretty happy for sure although my body was broken down.

Thirty minutes later I started thinking in two things: bath and sleep. My bath was nice in despite of having to finish it at a faucet. As I said, showers work with coins and it has a limited time … never mind. For sleeping I decided to buy a foam for putting under my sleeping bag. It is made for it.  So, at that time I had everything for a nice sleeping night: tiredness and a “nice” bed …



See you soon.
(No reviewed)

(*) I am camping in a forest at least 10 miles from civilization. There is nothing here. More details soon.